A Foodie Guide to Dubai

Dubai was formed as late as 1971 and for many years looked like a glorified building site in the middle of a desert. On a recent trip, I discovered that things have moved far beyond megamalls, luxury hotels and the sound of perpetual construction. The city seems to be in the process of unprecedented growth, offering great travel experiences and some extraordinarily good food. It is an ideal weekend getaway and only a two-and-a-half-hour flight from Pune directly to Dubai! Today, there’s plenty on offer. These are my picks for FOODIES who want to go beyond the tried and tested.

A CAMEL SAFARI IN THE DESERT

Slow cooked lamb at Qbara DubaiLawrence of Arabia is one of my all-time favourite movies and I must confess that riding a camel has been on my bucket list for some time. I opt for the breakfast safari by Platinum Heritage, impeccable arrangements, cool 1950s Land Rovers, spotlessly clean bathrooms in the middle of the desert and very well-mannered camels! Morning in the desert is mesmerising. They make me wear a kind of a black keffiyeh. It’s not very becoming but it does keep the fine desert sand out of my hair. Breakfast is nothing to write about except the excellent gahwa coffee and local date syrup but the camel ride is. It is surprisingly comfortable and much easier than riding a horse. Dinner, I hear, is a much more extravagant affair, Bedouin style where you could be tucking into a centerpiece of rice and camel hump and other Emirati delicacies.

MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD WITH A TWIST

You can get halfway decent mezze with a Lebanese garden of vegetables almost anywhere in the city, but where can you find the same garden of vegetables hand-picked and served on a bed of ice with a labneh and truffle dip in the centre? QBara at Wafi. It doesn’t stop there. Kibbeh is transformed into a dish to dream about with lobster instead of lamb, lamb shank is slow cooked with garlic and sumac until it falls off the bone and baklawa is smashed and served with camel milk ice cream.

THE BEST SHAWARMA IN THE CITY

The best shawarma in the city is still for me at Automatic, one of the city’s long-standing Lebanese stalwarts which now has several branches. I still go to the one in Old Deira which has satisfied my shawarma and hummus fix for nearly three decades. Juicy shreds of chicken or lamb are sawed off of the rotating spit, laid out on a khubz (pita) with a bed of leaves, sour pickles, tahina, garlic sauce and fries, and then toasted down with a sandwich press. All their mezze is also outstanding.

PICK UP LOCAL PRODUCE

I am directed by the chef at Arabesque @ Park Hyatt to Al Douri Mart, a shop where Syrians go for their provisions. It’s a humble place, thankfully on the main Abu Baker road in Horalanz towards Deira. An Alladin’s cave of the most stunning ingredients for all Middle Eastern dishes. I find thick, black mountain honey, deliciously aromatic Turkish coffee ground in front of me, home-made tahini, sumac, sesame halwa, gigantic dried beans, a variety of dates and fresh baklava.   I buy soft cheese hand rolled in za’atar from their deli counter and individually wrapped pistachio nougat, pomegranate molasses and orange blossom water. Did I mention the prices? Probably half of what you would pay in a fashionable downtown supermarket.

LUNCH ON THE CREEK

When I was told I was going to lunch at an Italian restaurant overlooking the waters of Dubai creek, I really thought it was going to be a slap up pizza pasta job. I didn’t expect Michelin level food nor the most amazing truffle ice-cream I have ever had. If that isn’t your thing, they even do a mouthwatering gorgonzola ice-cream with radicchio beet jelly and walnut and a perfectly executed slow cooked seabass in extra virgin olive oil, confit of mushrooms and crispy seaweed @Vivaldi, Sheraton Dubai Creek

COCKTAILS WITH A VIEW

Pierchic @ Al Qasr Madinat Jumeirah, really is one of the most chic (or “chick” as it is pronounced locally) restaurants in the city, specializing in seafood. At the end of a long pier which stretches out into the middle of the Indian Ocean, the view is unparalleled. A drink at their cocktail bar situated halfway along the pier overlooking Burj Al Arab is something to talk about.

EAT PERUVIAN?

Peruvian food is the latest cuisine on the international culinary circuit and rightly Coya, a really sophisticated example, has chosen Dubai to open after London. It is the place to taste the best ceviche (try the red snapper, truffle and ponzu), tiraditos (sashimi), anticuchos (skewers of meat, seafood or poultry), a fabulous corn salad, sprouting broccoli with sesame and parrillada, meat cooked on a grill. Worth going back for the melt in the mouth Josper rib eye parillada

ENJOY CAMEL MILK CHOCOLATE

I swear this is not a tourist trick. Camel milk is reportedly the healthiest milk to drink. Chocolates made from it are the most delicious, smooth tasting chocolate ever. Al Nassma, who also supply Selfridgers in London, make a stunning macademia nut and orange variety which I drool over. The 70% dark and Arabia with cinnamon and other spices are also worth trying. They have a dedicated counter in Dubai Mall and are also available at the airport.

Karen Anand04-06-16Food Guru Karen Anand is one of India’s best known food and travel writers. Based in Pune, Karen has over the last 25 years also overseen the production of gourmet products. She is also founder of the popular Farmers’ Market which now runs in seven Indian cities. Indulge will appear every other Saturday on Pune365.

Karen Anand